This morning we woke for our final sunrise in the Anapurna range. After watching the first silver-gold rays come up the steep valley from Lake Fewa and across the tops of the tallest mountains on Earth, I made the short climb past the lavish stepped gardens that have fed us here in Phanchase Bhanjyang up to two small stone “kute” meditation huts to have a sit.
bird chatter mind
sunrise on Anapurna
time to go home
These five days in the Himalaya have been the definition of peak experience, and have perhaps been the most exhilarating days of our five months on the road. We have walked the Panchese circuit–a village to village trek that has meandered in and out of the jungle, up and down ancient stairs, and across stepped fields of tea, millet, and rice, all the while in full view of the Anapurnas, which house three of the world’s 14 8000+ meter peaks. Each little village has a tea house or two that rent a handful of rooms for $5 or $10 a night. Our tea along the way has been sweetened with fresh buffalo milk, our dahl baht fragranced with local ginger, and our morning pancakes made dark and delicious with millet grown a few feet away.
The trek has been tough on our bodies, walking 8 to 12 KM per day with elevation swings of 1000 meters or more. And this is a light, family-friendly hike compared with more ambitious treks up to Anapurna or Everest base camps at 5000 meters. Oliver and Judah have really stepped up and helped out with lugging our load. And the clean, high mountain air has been an elixir to us all, inspiring fun and great family conversations, as well as powerful moments of introspection when the scenery and spirituality of these ancient hills evoke a clear and sweeping perspective of one’s life.
The villages of these mountains are each unique, sometimes with their own dialects, deities, and varieties of spinach, cauliflower or other crops. And they are seemingly endless, dotting the ridges and mountainsides that rise like waves as far as the eye can see. We have only scratched the surface here, and I, at least, am sad to be heading downhill today (though Oliver has confirmed that he is ready to get back to the “civilized” world of wifi and cornflakes in Pokhara).
But I am certain that I will return to Nepal and spend more time–hopefully a lot more time, wandering the footpaths and getting to know these villages and the people that inhabit these heights. Anyone want to join me?
The Rosenheim Odyssey 
Anyone want to join me? Are you kidding??????? COUNT ME IN! I cannot wait! I am literally gasping. Your writing is stunning, Bro.
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Great piece of writing…stunning pictures…boy, do I miss you!
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